A CONFEDERATE ‘BUTTERNUT’ SINGLE‑BREASTED OFFICER’S JACKET, POSSIBLY LOUISIANA

American South, Civil War period, c. 1862–65. Wool‑and‑cotton mix cloth in the characteristic “butternut” tone (light gray‑tan cotton warp, approx. 72 threads per inch; greenish yellow‑tan wool weft, c. 56 threads per inch; 2/1 twill with doubled warp threads), cut as a six‑piece body (two front panels, two side‑backs, two backs) with two‑piece sleeves and plain, non‑functioning cuffs. Standing collar; single‑breasted front with eight buttons; one‑piece front facing (“buttonfall”) carried around the skirts to the back seam. Lined throughout in tabby‑weave cotton (approx. 56 tpi) with an interior pocket on each breast of blue‑and‑white cotton (warp c. 48 tpi, weft c. 56 tpi).

A genuine Confederate officer’s jacket fitted with brass coin buttons brought back from an advanced state of deterioration: large losses and shape ambiguities were addressed in treatment; scattered repairs, infill patches, and areas of stabilized wear are visible throughout; lining toned and worn; cuffs with added scarlet tape and a single small brass button each. Overall, a well‑restored, structurally sound display piece retaining substantial original fabric and construction details.

This lot is accompanied by a report made by uniform expert, Les Jensen. Jensen’s report concludes that the garment is a well‑restored example of an original Confederate officer’s jacket, very possibly from a Louisiana unit. The cut, coarse mixed‑fiber cloth, interior blue cotton pockets, and eight‑button single‑breasted configuration are all consistent with field‑tailored Southern manufacture.

The jacket, retaining substantial original fabric and construction details and accompanied by a two‑page expert report by Les Jensen, is a research‑grade document of Confederate supply and officer tailoring. Authentic Confederate officer’s coats are exceptionally scarce on the market—and examples with rigorous professional documentation are highly prized, making this a highly desirable, museum‑caliber piece. It would stand as a centerpiece in any advanced collection of Civil War uniforms and Southern material culture.

Note: The jacket was once displayed with Louisiana state–seal buttons; these have been replaced with the present brass coin buttons to return the garment to its as-found state. We encourage interested parties to request a condition report.