[NATIVE AMERICAN] c. 1900 Nez Perce Beaded Belt w/ Awl Case & Floral Pouch

A Nez Perce Beaded Belt with Attached Awl Case and Pouch. Columbia Plateau, circa 1900.

A beautifully coordinated ensemble comprising a broad beaded belt, an elongated awl case, and a rounded pouch, distinguished by extensive pink beadwork and contrasting geometric and floral ornament. The belt is edged in red cloth and narrow rows of blue beads. Across its pink ground, cross-shaped devices in white, red, and dark blue alternate with a blue floral rosette and a white rectangular panel enclosing concentric red and blue circles.

The tapering awl case is closely covered in pink beads, interrupted by narrow bands of black, white, and turquoise. Hide fringe tipped with rolled metal cones extends from its lower end. The suspended pouch is worked differently on its two faces: one displays blue blossoms and broad green leaves against pink, while the other carries a leafy stem and red floral elements on a light blue ground. Decorated triangular flaps, multicolored edging, and slender pendant ties complete the arrangement.

The juxtaposition of geometric and botanical designs reflects the breadth of Nez Perce beadwork. Glass beads reached the Nez Perce through Indigenous trade networks before the arrival of Lewis and Clark in 1805. Increasing supplies encouraged the development of beadwork during the nineteenth century, with floral patterns becoming established during the 1860s as small seed beads became more widely available.

The awl case adds a practical dimension to the ensemble. Awls were used to pierce hide in preparation for sewing, linking this finely ornamented accessory to the work of making clothing and other leather objects. The shared palette brings the three components into visual harmony, while the pouch’s contrasting faces preserve an especially engaging display of individual invention.